A weekend wander East and West...

I ensured I got out early, before it became too warm, but we do have a few steep hills in Hastings, notably these 2, and it wasn't chilly at all! As I live in the centre of town I began by walking up the West Hill, first of all to take this photograph from outside Hastings Castle (images within are included in my older blog).

Taken of the 'old town' looking down from the West Hill, most will already be well aware that the 'old town' is actually the Norman New Hastings. This became the new centre following the great storms of the 13th century, which altered the local coastline, depositing a vast bank of shingle which helped to create the America Ground at the west of the new town centre, and filled in the old harbour over which the castle stood, got that? Maybe it's better explained in an older blog about the America Ground.

I then headed down to the 'old town' and passed one of our two Norman churches on the corner of the High Street and opposite Swan Terrace, St Clement Church (blog).

I then crossed The Bourne, now a road, but once a river running through the centre of the old town, and part of local drains I do believe. I walked up to and along Tackleway to above All Saints Church, the other Norman church, where I took this photograph (more about this church, and photographs inside and out, on this older blog).

I then walked up the East Hill, from where I took this photograph looking down into the 'old town' and across to the West Hill. Oh yes, by the way, there are iron age forts at the top of both hills too!

Before I had an early drink at the Dolphin Inn, and then visited the Sussex Street Food Festival on the Stade Open Space (blog), and then had a drink at the Jolly Fisherman (I was thirsty!), I wandered down the steps that start by the top of the East Hill Lift, and down to Tackleway, and then turned left down to Rock-a-Nore Road.

Hastings Norman Churches Part II - All Saints Church

It's a while since I wrote about St Clements Church (blog), one of the two remaining Norman churches in Hastings, so here is my rather delayed blog about the Grade II listed All Saints Church at the top of All Saints Street and below the East Hill.

An All Saints Church appears to have existed in Hastings from as far back as the 13th century, and maybe even earlier, but that church was damaged in the French raids of 1339 and 1377 and had to be rebuilt. All Saints may have been rebuilt on the same site, or close by, either would seem likely, but I cannot find any provenance giving evidence of exactly where the older church was situated.

All Saints was rebuilt of stone and flint between 1417 and 1430, in the Perpendicular Gothic style with chequered stone parapets and tiled roofs, and the exterior is mostly early 15th century in appearance. The tower is substantial with three stages and an embattled parapet in chequerboard flintwork. A large graveyard surrounds the church.

Although restored by Butterfield in 1870, the interior architecture is also mostly genuine 15th century, that is the nave, chancel, north and south aisles, and above the chancel arch is a 15th century 'doom' painting of the Last Judgement with Christ painted seated on rainbows. From the 19th century are a timber and stone pulpit, large reredos extending up either side of the East window, windows, and choir stalls with open arcaded fronts, foliage carving and kneeling angels on the arms. For more details, see the British Listed Buildings website, where there is plenty more information!

An interesting event of the English Civil War is celebrated by a plaque at the bottom of the stairs up to the church, when Parliamentary forces on 9th July 1643, under the leadership of Colonel Herbert Morley of Glynde (then MP for Lewes, later MP for Sussex, and for Rye) and meeting no resistance, took Hastings from Royalist control and captured all weaponry. The rector of All Saints ran away, but was caught and thrown into jail, and that night some Parliamentary troops were billeted in the church.

More recently, in June this year, the Cyril and Lilian Bishop was pulled up All Saints Street to its resting birth below the church (see blog), you can't miss either, though this photograph was from before she arrived! More photographs elsewhere, eg this blog.

Pevensey to Beachy Head walk...

Recently, taking advantage of good weather, my brother, Dan, and I ventured out on the decent value Family Dayrider bus ticket (Stagecoach, covering East Sussex and Kent), that costs £12 for 2 adults (and 3 children or 1 adult and 4 children), and we visited 3 Norman churches, including 2 we'd never visited before. Of course, this image is of Pevensey Castle, which was built at the beginning of the 13th century within the 3rd century walls of the original Roman defences; the Normans knew how to take advantage of an already existing fortification!

In Pevensey itself, after having a surprise chat with a friend, Alan, who had dropped off his van with a local mechanic, we visited the Grade I listed St Nicholas Church, built around the same time as the castle, on the site of a Saxon church, which in those days overlooked the sea, as did the castle. St Nicholas is the patron saint of seafarers, and this early Norman church is considered the most unspoilt church of the time, as in few alterations, particularly from the Victorians! See the website for further information.

After walking through the castle fortifications, we came to Westham, another ancient parish, to the immediate west of the castle, with another Norman church...

Though having more alterations over the centuries than St Nicholas, St Mary's Church in Westham was the first Norman church built in England. Another Grade I listed building, constructed 1080-90: see website, but not too much information about the history of the church, which is a shame... there's a job needs doing! 

From Pevensey, we walked down to the seafront and headed westwards toward Eastbourne, on the way through the modern Sovereign Harbour, we saw 2 grey seals lounging on the beach, apparently, not a care in the world! Following a touch of our packed-lunch, we carried on into Eastbourne, and uphill to the Old Town and St Mary's...

Actually, this is St Mary the Virgin church, our third Norman church of the day, built circa 1180, though enlarged in the 14th century, and with considerable restoration under the Victorians in the 19th century. Plenty of further information at the website of this church.

Oh yes, and before we wandered off to Beachy Head, we had a couple of pints of Harveys at one of the oldest pubs in the country, The Lamb Inn (website), which dates from 1180.

Then we walked across to Beachy Head, coming back into the town to catch our bus back to Hastings, a good day out, 3 lovely Norman churches and well worth doing!